Dear friends,

How are you all doing? We are interested to know what's going on in your life. We are very much OK. We did a lot of skiing and since we are now "residents" of Ushuaia we have very much reduced prices for the lifts. We have an official document with foto to show.
Unfortunately, some weeks ago I made a high speed fall on an icy, blue slope (my ski trailed in an ice-ridge) and hurt my ribs again. I fell on the handle of one of my sticks. Giving me still a similar feeling as in december after my operation. So Paula continued skiing with all our friends here, while I have been taking it "sort of easy". But in the mean time I installed for instance 5 new batteries in Pacific Blue and of course removed the six old ones. A sixth new one will be added soon because one battery was on a very low voltage (11,6 V) so I gave it back to be replaced. We will have 720 Amp/hrs then i.s.o. 600. We bought Gel-batteries that hopefully will last much longer than the ordinary ones we had till now. It set us back € 2400,-- unfortunately. And carrying the heavy batteries didn't ad to my recovering from the ribs problem either. But it had to be done and our electrical system is very good again.

The ribs are on the mend now and we did already some horse riding. One 8 hour trip to the glacier at estancia Ferrari where we are anchored again for 20 days until the 25th. I am wearing a brace from Jose around my ribs. We have been fishing trout, poaching rabbits and trying to find cattle. We went up some spectacular rocky hills again. We ended with a spectacular view on the big glacier where we hadn't been yet. At one time we had to climb ourselves and lead the horses because the rocks were so big and steep we couldn't stay on. It looked more like a staircase than a hill. One time my horse (called "Wizard" in Spanish) had me dangling from a tree branch because it suddenly cut the corner too close to the tree for me to be able to get under the branches. I dodged the first one but the second was to low for me. The horse does not realise this of course. At least I hope not. So I had to slip of backwards in an un-elegant way but the horse stopped immediately.

Yesterday we were treated by the fishermen that come here regularly. We have a drink with some of them regularly and with some beer or wine the language problem becomes less and less.
The 18-th is a National holiday and they celebrate that for a whole week. They made a big pan with all kinds of food and put it on the fire for 1 1/2 hour. It contained steamed bread, mussels, chicken, potatoes, bacon etc. We ate it with about 20 people (also some french guest from a charter boat) in the small house of Jose and Annemie.
All the dogs were also still loose so it was an anima(la)ted mess. They kept coming in any time a door would be opened. Very nice! And you could throw the chicken-bones under the table.

The fishermen and the Border Patrol Station are starting to know Pacific Blue around here and one skipper is reporting us to the coastguard-station every day since we can not reach them from here all the time because of the mountains. In Puerto Williams there was a policeman on the shore at ten a clock at night looking for us. We were asked to deliver some official documents to the Border Patrol people across the bay here. So we are also a sort of messenger service now. Today we are invited to a big roast of lamb on a big sort of BBQ. They call it an Asado. The lamb is spread flat out on a metal rack or a stick and put more or less straight up along the fire for a few hours until it is done from both sides. On the 25-th we will be taking two English mountaineers, Andy and Simon, back to Puerto Williams. They are trying to conquer the big glacier and one of the 2500 m. icy tops at the moment. Jose and Annemie took them and all their gear to the glacier with pack-horses yesterday.

Our further plans are not very firm yet. There is a vague plan to go to Antarctica after all in Januari. I have the whole set of BA maps copied and the BA pilot book for Antarctica. One of the important things I want to have repaired is the HF radio. I do not like to go without it working properly. We may have to take the whole thing to Punta Arenas by bus or so. But we intended to make that trip anyway. If we go to Antarctica we will continue north next Autumn (april, may) to Puerto Mont. That would mean we are late for the Pacific and we will thus have time to fly to Holland and travel a lot inland of Chili and Argentina.
That would allow us to enter the Pacific early 2010 via Robinson Crusoe, Gambier and french Polynesia, Tonga and Fiji and end up in N-Zeeland november 2010. The next big adventure could (and I emphasise "could") be to return to Chili via the Southern Ocean in Januari 2011 along 42*S. About 5000 Nm so 6 to 7 weeks sailing. But we have taken to making one decision at the time. We are slowing down like most long-time sailors here do. It is worthwhile to spent more time in areas like Patagonia etc. i.s.o rushing through. This way we are also making many new sailing friends. Many of them have sailed for many years to remote places like Greenland and the North-West Passage of Alaska. It is a small group of interesting and very nice people. Compared to many of them we are merely beginners in the cruising field. But they don't treat us that way.

They can give us a lot of info about Antarctica as well.

So that's it for the moment.

Greetings to all, Peter and Paula